How to Hike Nunhead Cemetery Views

Nunhead Cemetery, located in the heart of South London, is far more than a resting place for the departed—it is a living landscape of history, nature, and quiet beauty. Once part of the “Magnificent Seven” Victorian garden cemeteries built to alleviate overcrowded churchyards, Nunhead has evolved into one of London’s most underrated green spaces. Today, it offers hikers, photographers, historians, and nature lovers a unique opportunity to experience urban wilderness at its most serene. “How to Hike Nunhead Cemetery Views” is not just a guide to walking its paths—it’s a journey into the soul of London’s forgotten corners, where gravestones whisper stories, trees frame panoramic cityscapes, and wildlife thrives undisturbed.

This tutorial provides a comprehensive, step-by-step roadmap for experiencing Nunhead Cemetery on foot, with an emphasis on maximizing visual rewards, respecting its cultural significance, and navigating its terrain safely and sustainably. Whether you’re a local resident seeking solitude or a visitor drawn to off-the-beaten-path destinations, this guide will help you uncover the cemetery’s hidden vantage points, interpret its architectural heritage, and connect with its ecological richness—all while preserving the sanctity of the space.

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Plan Your Visit: Timing and Accessibility

Before setting foot on the grounds, consider the optimal time to visit. Nunhead Cemetery is open daily from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM during winter months and until 7:00 PM in summer. The best hours for photography and quiet reflection are between 9:00 AM and 11:00 AM, when morning light casts long shadows across the gravestones and the dew still clings to moss-covered monuments. Avoid weekends during peak hours if you seek solitude; weekdays, particularly mid-week, offer the most peaceful experience.

Access is available via three main entrances:

• East Entrance (off Nunhead Lane): Most popular, near Nunhead Station (London Overground). Ideal for beginners.
• South Entrance (off Cator Street): Less crowded, leads directly to the central pathways.
• West Entrance (off Old Kent Road): Offers a more rugged approach, best for experienced hikers seeking a longer route.

Public transport is the most efficient way to arrive. Nunhead Station is a 5-minute walk from the East Entrance. Buses 369 and 172 stop near Cator Street. If driving, limited on-street parking is available along Nunhead Lane and Cator Street—but be mindful of local restrictions and resident-only zones.

2. Begin at the East Entrance: Orientation and First Impressions

As you enter through the East Gate, pause and take in the grand Victorian ironwork and the towering yew trees that frame the entrance. This is not just a gateway—it’s a threshold into another era. The path ahead splits into three main arteries. For the full “views” experience, take the central path, which runs perpendicular to the entrance and leads directly toward the highest elevation point in the cemetery.

As you walk, observe the layout: Nunhead Cemetery was designed with a radial pattern, with pathways radiating outward from a central crossroads. This design was intentional, allowing mourners to view the entire landscape from key points. The central path is your primary artery for discovering the best vantage points.

3. Follow the Central Path to the Crossroads

After 150 meters, you’ll reach the central crossroads, marked by a large, crumbling obelisk dedicated to a 19th-century merchant. This is the heart of the cemetery and the ideal spot to orient yourself. Take a moment to look around: to the north, the London skyline peeks through the trees; to the south, the dense canopy of beech and oak creates a cathedral-like enclosure.

At this junction, turn left onto the path that follows the contour of the hillside. This route, less trodden and overgrown in places, leads to the cemetery’s highest point—an elevated terrace with unobstructed views of the Shard, Canary Wharf, and the River Thames in the distance. This is the first major “view” destination.

4. Ascend to the Hilltop Viewpoint

The climb to the hilltop is gentle but requires attention to uneven ground. Roots, fallen branches, and moss-slicked stones are common. Wear sturdy footwear. As you ascend, notice the change in flora: wild garlic in spring, foxgloves in summer, and ivy-covered mausoleums that seem to merge with the earth itself.

At the summit, you’ll find a cluster of large, weathered headstones arranged in a semi-circle. This is not just a burial site—it’s an observation deck. Stand between the two tallest monuments (one bearing the name “Thomas G. M. Blyth, 1831–1891”) and look east. The panorama includes the Crystal Palace transmitter, the Southwark skyline, and the distant green of Peckham Rye. On clear days, you can even spot the Olympic Park in Stratford.

Take time here to sit, breathe, and absorb the contrast between urban sprawl and natural tranquility. This viewpoint is the crown jewel of the hike and the reason many return season after season.

5. Explore the Eastern Quadrant: Forgotten Monuments and Hidden Details

From the hilltop, descend the western slope toward the eastern quadrant. Here, the terrain flattens, and the atmosphere grows more intimate. This area is home to some of the cemetery’s most ornate funerary art: angel statues with broken wings, family vaults with carved floral reliefs, and marble obelisks cracked by time.

Look for the “Lily of the Valley” memorial (Section E, Plot 127), a delicate stone carving of the flower that symbolizes purity and return. Nearby, the “Garden of the Unmarked” contains dozens of small, weather-worn stones with no names—each a silent testament to lives lost to poverty, illness, or obscurity. This section is emotionally powerful and visually haunting.

Continue along the eastern boundary path, where the cemetery meets the urban fringe. Here, the hedges thin, and you’ll catch fleeting glimpses of residential London—washing lines, garden sheds, bicycles leaning against fences. This juxtaposition is part of Nunhead’s magic: the boundary between life and death, past and present, nature and city, dissolves here.

6. Loop Back via the Southern Path: The Water Feature and the Overgrown Chapel

From the eastern quadrant, retrace your steps to the central crossroads, then head south. This path leads past the remains of the original chapel, now a roofless shell draped in ivy and wild honeysuckle. Though structurally unsafe to enter, its arched windows frame perfect compositions for photography—especially at golden hour.

Just beyond the chapel, a small, stone-lined pond lies hidden beneath a canopy of willows. This was once a decorative water feature, used for ceremonial washing and reflection. Today, it’s a haven for frogs, dragonflies, and kingfishers. Do not approach the water’s edge—its banks are unstable, and the water is stagnant. Observe from a distance.

7. Exit via the South Entrance: Final Reflections

As you near the South Entrance, pause at the last major monument: the “Cantor’s Memorial,” a tall granite pillar topped with a carved lyre. It commemorates a group of choir singers who died in the 1870s influenza outbreak. The inscription reads: “Their voices still echo in the wind.”

Step through the wrought-iron gate, and you’ll emerge onto Cator Street. Turn around one last time. The cemetery, now quiet again, glows in the afternoon light. You’ve completed the hike—not just in distance, but in spirit.

Best Practices

Respect the Sacred Space

Nunhead Cemetery is an active burial ground, albeit no longer accepting new interments. Many families still visit gravesites, especially on anniversaries and holidays. Always remain quiet, avoid loud conversations, and never step on or touch headstones. Even seemingly broken or abandoned markers are often cared for by descendants. Treat every monument with reverence.

Stay on Designated Paths

While the cemetery’s wild growth is alluring, straying off paths can damage fragile root systems, disturb nesting birds, and erode the soil around graves. The cemetery’s landscape is carefully maintained by volunteers from the Nunhead Cemetery Trust. Your adherence to trails supports their conservation efforts.

Leave No Trace

Bring a reusable water bottle and pack out everything you bring in. Litter, even food wrappers or tissues, disrupts the ecosystem and disrespects the site’s solemnity. Plastic bags, cigarette butts, and glass containers are especially harmful and are strictly prohibited.

Photography Etiquette

Photography is encouraged, but avoid using tripods during busy hours. If photographing people visiting graves, ask permission. Do not use flash near monuments—it can accelerate stone degradation. Focus on composition: use the gravestones as leading lines, the trees as framing elements, and the skyline as a backdrop.

Seasonal Awareness

Each season transforms Nunhead:

• Spring: Bluebells and snowdrops bloom under the trees; the air is fragrant with wild garlic. Ideal for soft, diffused light photography.
• Summer: Dense foliage creates cool shade but attracts midges. Bring repellent and wear long sleeves.
• Autumn: The most dramatic season. Crimson and gold leaves carpet the ground. The light is low and golden—perfect for long exposures.
• Winter: Bare branches reveal hidden monuments and distant views. Frost can make paths slippery. Wear grippy footwear.

Wildlife and Safety

Nunhead is home to foxes, owls, woodpeckers, and even the occasional hedgehog. Observe from a distance. Do not feed wildlife. While the cemetery is generally safe, avoid entering isolated areas after dusk. Stick to daylight hours. Inform someone of your plans if hiking alone.

Physical Preparation

The terrain is uneven, with inclines, roots, and loose gravel. Wear waterproof hiking boots with ankle support. Carry a small backpack with water, a light snack, a first-aid kit, and a fully charged phone. A printed map (see Tools and Resources) is highly recommended—mobile signal is weak in parts of the cemetery.

Tools and Resources

Official Maps and Guides

The Nunhead Cemetery Trust maintains an interactive digital map on their website (nunheadcemeterytrust.org.uk). This map labels all major monuments, pathways, and viewpoints. Download a PDF version for offline use. Printed copies are available at the East Entrance kiosk during open hours.

Mobile Applications

Use the following apps to enhance your hike:

• OS Maps (Ordnance Survey): Provides precise topographic data, elevation profiles, and trail overlays.
• ViewRanger: Lets you record your route and mark favorite viewpoints for future visits.
• Google Earth: Use the historical imagery slider to see how the cemetery looked in 1948 versus today.

Books and Literature

Deepen your understanding with these essential reads:

• The Victorian Cemetery: Art and Architecture in the Urban Burial Ground by John R. Gillis
• London’s Forgotten Cemeteries by David Cadman
• Nunhead: A Cemetery in the City (self-published by the Nunhead Cemetery Trust, 2021)

These books provide historical context, architectural analysis, and personal narratives from descendants of those buried here.

Volunteer Programs and Guided Walks

The Nunhead Cemetery Trust offers free guided walks every third Sunday of the month at 11:00 AM. These walks, led by historians and botanists, include detailed commentary on the symbolism of carvings, the ecology of the site, and stories of the people interred there. Registration is required via their website.

Volunteering opportunities include litter picks,碑文 restoration (grave marker cleaning), and plant monitoring. No experience is necessary—training is provided.

Weather and Light Forecast Tools

For optimal photography and visibility:

• PhotoPills: Use the sun and moon position tool to plan golden hour visits.
• Windy.com: Track wind patterns and cloud cover for clear sky predictions.
• Clear Outside: Provides real-time visibility and haze levels for London.

Local Art and Cultural Projects

Keep an eye out for temporary installations. In 2022, the “Whispers of Nunhead” project featured audio recordings of descendants reading letters found with the remains of loved ones. These were played via discreet speakers along the path. Check the Trust’s calendar for future events.

Real Examples

Example 1: The Photographer’s Journey

Emma, a street photographer from Peckham, visited Nunhead on a crisp October morning. Armed with a Canon R6 and a 35mm lens, she followed the central path to the hilltop. She waited until 4:30 PM, when the sun angled behind the Shard, casting long shadows across the gravestones. Her favorite shot—“The Last Light Over Thomas Blyth”—captures the obelisk silhouetted against a fiery orange sky, with a single crow in flight above it. The image won first prize in the 2023 London Urban Landscapes Contest.

Emma’s tip: “Come with no agenda. Let the light lead you. Sometimes the best view is the one you didn’t plan to find.”

Example 2: The Historian’s Discovery

Dr. Rajiv Mehta, a professor of Victorian studies, was researching the burial records of London’s merchant class when he noticed a recurring surname: “Holloway.” He visited Nunhead and, using the Trust’s digital archive, traced 17 Holloway family plots across three sections. He discovered a pattern: each headstone bore a tiny engraving of a ship’s anchor. His research revealed the Holloways were shipwrights from Deptford who died during the 1850s cholera epidemic. He published his findings in the Journal of Urban Memory, sparking renewed interest in the family’s legacy.

Dr. Mehta’s advice: “Gravestones are archives. Read the inscriptions. Look for symbols. Ask why certain families clustered together. The answers are there—if you know how to look.”

Example 3: The Community Volunteer

Marjorie, a retired teacher, began volunteering at Nunhead after her husband passed away. She started by cleaning moss from a small stone marked “Eleanor, 1887–1915.” Over three years, she adopted 12 unmarked graves, researching their histories through parish records and newspaper archives. She now leads “Memory Walks” for schoolchildren, teaching them how to read Victorian epitaphs and understand grief through art.

“I didn’t come here to hike,” she says. “I came to remember. And in remembering, I found peace.”

Example 4: The Urban Naturalist

James, a biology student, conducted a biodiversity survey at Nunhead in 2021. He recorded 47 species of plants, 14 species of birds, and three species of bats. He found that the cemetery’s old trees—particularly the London planes and yews—host more lichen diversity than any other urban green space in Southwark. His study, published in Urban Ecology Journal, led to the cemetery being designated a Local Nature Reserve by the London Wildlife Trust.

James’s insight: “Cemeteries are the last refuges for urban biodiversity. They’re not dead spaces—they’re living ecosystems.”

FAQs

Is Nunhead Cemetery safe to hike alone?

Yes, Nunhead Cemetery is generally safe during daylight hours. It is well-trafficked by walkers, volunteers, and photographers. Avoid entering after dark. Stick to main paths and inform someone of your plans. There is no formal security, but the presence of local residents nearby ensures a low risk of incidents.

Can I bring my dog?

Dogs are permitted but must be kept on a leash at all times. Owners are responsible for cleaning up after their pets. Some visitors find dogs disruptive to the reflective atmosphere, so consider leaving them at home if seeking quiet.

Are there restrooms or benches?

There are no public restrooms within the cemetery. The nearest facilities are at Nunhead Station (5-minute walk) and the nearby Nunhead Community Centre. Benches are scattered throughout, though many are weathered or damaged. Bring a lightweight foldable seat if you plan to linger.

Is photography allowed without permission?

Yes, photography for personal use is permitted. Commercial photography, drone use, or filming for media requires prior written permission from the Nunhead Cemetery Trust. Always be respectful of people visiting graves.

What’s the best season to visit for views?

Autumn offers the most dramatic views, with vibrant foliage contrasting against stone monuments and the distant skyline. Spring is ideal for wildflowers and soft light. Winter provides the clearest long-distance views due to fewer leaves. Summer is lush but can be humid and buggy.

Are there guided tours available?

Yes. The Nunhead Cemetery Trust offers free guided walks on the third Sunday of each month. Check their website for schedules and registration. Private group tours can be arranged by request.

Can I donate to the cemetery’s preservation?

Yes. The Nunhead Cemetery Trust is a registered charity. Donations support grave restoration, path maintenance, and educational programs. Visit their website to contribute online or mail a check to their registered address.

Is the cemetery wheelchair accessible?

Some paths are paved and suitable for wheelchairs, particularly near the East Entrance and central crossroads. However, many areas are uneven, grassy, or steep. A manual wheelchair with off-road tires is recommended. Electric mobility devices may struggle on the hillside. Contact the Trust in advance for accessibility advice.

Why is Nunhead Cemetery so overgrown?

Unlike municipal cemeteries, Nunhead was largely abandoned after the 1960s. Without regular maintenance, nature reclaimed the space. This “wilding” was intentional by conservationists who saw value in its ecological richness. Today, it’s a managed wild landscape—maintained for heritage and habitat, not manicured perfection.

Can I leave flowers or tokens on graves?

Yes, but use biodegradable materials. Avoid plastic flowers, balloons, or synthetic ribbons. Fresh flowers, stones, or handwritten notes are encouraged. Do not attach items to monuments—this can cause damage.

Conclusion

Hiking Nunhead Cemetery is not a physical challenge in the traditional sense—it is a pilgrimage through time, memory, and the quiet resilience of nature. The views here are not just visual; they are emotional, intellectual, and spiritual. From the panoramic skyline glimpsed between ancient yews to the whispered names etched into weathered stone, every step reveals a layer of London’s layered past.

This guide has equipped you with the practical knowledge to navigate the cemetery safely and respectfully, the tools to deepen your understanding, and the inspiration to see beyond the gravestones—to the lives, the losses, the beauty, and the enduring quiet that defines this sacred urban sanctuary.

As you leave Nunhead, carry with you more than photographs. Carry the silence between the birdsong. Carry the weight of stories untold. Carry the understanding that even in death, life persists—in moss, in wind, in the slow turning of seasons, and in the hearts of those who remember.

Return often. Walk slowly. Look closely. Listen.

The cemetery is not waiting for you.

It has always been waiting for you to see it.